Cave, Cliff and Rock Churches, Tigray Region

Ethiopia was one of the first countries to adopt Christianity. Therefore, it is not surprising that the country is endowed with over more than 100 rock-hewn churches of different ages, sizes and histories, with the largest amount concentrated in the eastern Tigray region. These churches can be grouped together in four zones, Atsbi, Hawzen-Geralta, Sinkata-Adigrat and Tembien, but they have one thing in common: They are all carved out of sandstone which ranges in age from about 300 million years ago (Permo-Carboniferous) to 120 million years ago (Early Cretaceous). In these areas, the sandstone presents itself in thick and massive beds of coarse to fine-grained, well sorted layeres which are compact, but easily carved. Although limestone, basalt and crystalline rock outcrops are also exposed, few rock-hewn churches have been carved into them.

Ethiopia, offers architectural wonders nearly unknown outside its borders to the undaunted traveler. The Tigray churches may not be quite as monumental as Petra in Jordan or even neighboring Lalibela, but the sheer boldness of their construction is overwhelming.Below a list of rock-hewn churches well worth visiting.

1. Wukro Cherkos is the most accessible of the region’s churches since it is located on the eastern outskirts of Wukro town. The church is excavated into a cliff, presumably during the 4th century rule of Kings Ezana and Astbeha.

2. Abraha Atsbeha It takes about 45 minutes to reach Abraha Astbeha from Wukro. The interior of the church is stunningly decorated with frescoes and carvings.

3. Mikal Imba Of all Tigray’s rock-hewn churches, Mikael Imba, possibly dating from the 11th century, most resembles the Lalibela churches. Hewn into a three-quarter monolith, the interior is huge (16.6 m wide and 9 m deep) with 25 pillars (nine freestanding), holding up the 6m-high ceiling. It lies 9 km south of Atsbi and has an easy 20-minute ascent, which is finished with a short ladder.

4. Petros and Paulus Rock Church is located in what is known as the Teka Tesfay Cluster and can be reached by a short, but steep climb up a wooden ladder. The church is rock hewn, wood, stone and mortar combination, now out of service. The old, but unfortunately rapidly deteriorating murals of saints and angels in its interior are enchanting.

5. Mikel Melehayzenghi Rock Church lies a short 15 minute walk from Petros and Paulus. This tiny but superb church with its stooped doorway is hewn into the top of a small hill and thought to date from the 8th century. It’s known for its 3m-high carved dome ceiling that resembles a himbasha (a favorite round bread of the Tigray region). Oral tradition has it that it is the stamp of God.

6. Debre Maryan Kokor is one of the largest churches in the area. It is an impressive, cross-shaped building renowned for its architectural features such as cruciform pillars, arches and cupolas, fine 17th-century frescos and church treasures.

7. Daniel Kokor and Wednesday Market in Hawzien. Daniel Kokor is located on the same mountain top as Maryam Kokor. It can be reached by passing through a vertiginous ledge. Although much smaller than Maryam Kokor – it consists of just two chambers – it offers beautiful paintings. Daniel Kokor is said to have served as a monk’s retreat.

8. Abune Yemata Guh is located near Mariam Kokor. The church is hewn into a rock spire and if you have fear of heights, Abunde Yemata is definitely not the place for you to go. A rope is available for rent from the local guide association and is strongly recommended for those who are not used to rock climbing. The church offers some of the most beautiful paintings as well as an ancient goat skin book, The Book of St. Mary.

9. Abune Abraham Debre Tsion is also located on top of a mountain. It features large pillars, a beautiful goat skin fan, and bas-reliefs carved into the walls. This climb is easier than Maryam Korkor and Abune Yemata and offers similarly breathtaking views of the valley below.

10. Abune Gebre Mikael is located on a mountain top further away from the other churches near the town of Kararo. The frescoes here are particularly bright and the church offers examples of pillars, cupolas, and arches.

11. Yohannes Maequdi is located on top of the neighboring mountain from Abune Abraham and features beautiful paintings and six freestanding pillars.

12. Dugem Selassie, is a 19th century “new church.” This church is built into an outcrop rather than a large mountain, and is partially cut from the rock.

All of these the mountain top churches take about 1 hour to walk from the parking area, with Abune Yemata Guh being the most challenging climb, Maryam Korkor and Abune Gebre Mikael as moderately challenging, and Abune Abraham and Yohannes Maequdi as the most assessable of the mountain top churches.

(Infomation taken from https://www.lonelyplanet.com/ethiopia/rock-hewn-churches-of-tigray) and tripadvisor.com)